Harlick Skating Boots

Harlick Skating Boots was founded in 1935 when customer footwear maker Louis Harlick established a shop in San Francisco. They made ice and roller skating shoes and soon gained a reputation. Today most skate boots are made outside the US which keeps the price down but prevents custom products. Harlick Skating Boots continue to meet that demand with about 60% of their output custom made. Making skating boots starts with tracings and measurements of the skaters’ feet and ankles as well as a battery of questions used to perfect the fit. Customers unable to make a personal visit to Harlick can send their measurements, accompanied with photos or molds. There is even a company representative who makes rounds to various stores to catch trade. Custom fit boots can run upwards of $800 US (not including specialised blades) and take several months to complete. Competitors and professional skaters have traditionally worn white, tan or black boots, but now skaters prefer individual touches. Many have their lucky numbers (i.e. 13), initials, or personal logos embossed onto their boots. Boots now come in a wide array of colours and exotic finishes. The more flamboyant prints and styles tend to be requested by coaches and not the skaters. Some individuals prefer higher heels on their boots to give them height whilst others add embellishments such as hooks on one boot to help their partner’s grab when lifting. The average life of skating boots can be as short as six months depending on the wear and tear. Harlick Skating Boots have supplied the entire United States figure skating team at Vancouver Olympic Games with skating boots.

Uggs!: What are they wearing in Vancouver?

If they are clever then they will have on their ugg boots or mukluks (indigenous North American fur boots) to keep their tootsies warm. The secret to ‘Uggs’ is the fleece which traps air that heats to body temperature. This gives an insulating layer around the extremities and keeps feet for over heating or over cooling in warm temperatures. The best ‘Uggs’ are those with Merino sheepskin because its finer grading of fleece fibres. In addition to insulation merino sheepskin can wick moisture and odour (no sweaty or stinky feet). Only quality ‘Uggs’ are made with Merino sheepskin and the vast majority of boots are made from inferior sheepskins or combination with synthetic mixtures. Cheaper boots wear more quickly and can harbour bacteria which may cause foul foot odour and/or fungal infections.

Are Uggs Australian?
Well not exactly but when made with Australian Marino wool then there is none finer. Traditionally people working with sheep used the discarded fleece in the form of felt as clothing. Felt is a fabric made from wool but the fibres are not woven or knitted. Instead they are matted caused when small scales on the outside surface of the fibre rub and inter-lock when wet. These then bind tightly together or matt when dried. Today this is a common problem when washing woollens ie the formation of felt balls – same process. No one can be quiet sure when felt was discovered but it is considered to be one of the oldest textiles and was used in the 4th century BC as felt caps and boots. These were worn by Northern and Central Eurasian peoples (the Turkics) providing them with ideal protection from the biting frost. In antiquity felting technology became highly developed and Roman soldiers wore felt breastplates (for protection from arrows), tunics, boots and even socks. Chinese Emperors sat on felt mats and invading armies slept in felt tents. By the Middle Ages a foot sored Pope used some animal wool to felt his shoes.

The origins of Ugg boots in Australia are rather clouded in mystery the term is thought to have been around since the early 50s but the embryo of the modern ‘Ugg’ come into existence a decade later when a bunch of surfing jackeroos working on a West Australian sheep ranch wrapped their legs in pure merino fleece after taking their daily dip in the chilly surf. Soon a rough type boot was forged with linoleum soles and these were referred to as “ugly boots " or "uggs.’ The fashion spread to other surfing communities on the East Coast where the crude linoleum was replaced with rubber soles. Brian Smith was an Aussie surfer who wore his ‘uggs’ in North America, US beach boys were keen to have their own and soon the entrepreneurial Australian was importing ‘uggs’ and distributing them through little surfing shops along the West Coast of the US. The name ‘ugg boot’ was registered as a trademark in the early 70s and by the mid eighties ‘uggs; were established as a West Coast surfie favourite. Smith eventually sold his interests to Deckers in 1995. ‘Ugg boots’ remained popular within the beach culture but when Pamela Anderson (Baywatch filmed in NZ) was photographed wearing her ‘uggs,’ the celebrity fraternity started to take an interest. Later when Oprah Winfrey featured her favourite Uggs on her TV show this caught the average North Americans’ attention. All at a time when there was an extended cold spell, and a shortage of the boots for sale in America. The artificial demand which followed meant ‘Uggs’ everywhere were snapped up including thousands of sales of Australian uggs over the internet. Desperate to safeguard exclusivity Deckers (US) took legal action to prevent other companies using the name ‘ugg’ including those in OZ.

After long court battles it was finally accepted 'ugg’ was a generic term in common Australian use and hence unfair to restrict it. Now fashion ‘uggs’ can be found from Dog Town to the slopes of Vancouver; from the streets of Essex to the Paris Catwalks.

Excerpt from the Afternoons with Jenny Seeton Cutin FM 101, Perth Western Australia, Friday 02/26/2010.

Doctor: What’s in a name?

In an attempt to unify the caring professions in Australia an all out battle has ensued between medics and chiropractors and podiatrists over use of the titles ''doctor'' and ''surgeon.'' A new national register of health professional boards is about to commence in July and the Australian Medical Association has insisted non- medically trained therapists do not use the term ‘doctor.’The Royal Australasian College of Surgeons has similarly demanded self-styled podiatric surgeons delete the word surgeon when they register. The Medical Board of Australia uphold the belief no one should be able to use the title ''surgeon'' until they had completed a medical or dental degree and gained thorough knowledge of anatomy, physiology, biochemistry, pathology and pharmacology. The establishment of a national register is a safeguard to the public, enabling consumers to check a practitioner's credentials and prevent unqualified operators passing themselves off as specialists. Appears the titles ''Doctor'' and ''surgeon'' are not specified in the list of recognised specialties and hence the confusion.

Ten footers and barefeet

During the mid nineteenth century in the United States shoes were made in small workshops called ten footers, (i.e. 10-feet-by-10-feet constructions). Between five to 10 people worked in a ten-footer usually sat around a table. In the absence of automation shoe making was still down by hand. Division of labour was the rule in the Ten Footers. One workman would cut the leather which was tanned on the premises; another sewed the uppers together, while another sewed on the soles.

Some work was outsourced and women would hand sew uppers to soles at home but come the invention of the sole sewing machine the practice of "putting out" work gradually declined. Shoe making dominated the small towns of Massachusetts like Natick with 75 percent of the work force involved in shoe making. Core business during the mid 19th century prior to the Civil War (1861–1865), was supply of shoes for the slaves in the South. A spike in business came with the Gold Rush of (1848- 1855) when diggers needed boots.

Manufacture of shoes is complex with over a hundred separate operations involved; the greatest stride took place with the invention of the sole sowing machine. The first patented machine was invented in 1858 by Lyman Blake. The machinery was designed to stitch the sole and upper together. A year later Lyman sold his patent to Gordon McKay and together they developed the McKay sole-sewing machine which became the stalwart of shoe manufacture industry. Many other innovations followed but at first increased production brought an overproduction of product which required to be sold off cheaply. Mass produced footwear was poor quality and got the name ‘12 day shoes’ because on average that is as long as they would last.

Mechanisation severely impacted upon the shoemakers working in ten footers. Workshops were now given specialties such as one would cut the leather; another would form it; and another would stitch them together. Workers were put on piece work which resulted in massive pay cuts for much of the workforce. Gradually the ten-footers were closed and the workforce rehoused in central shops, where they could use the new machines. As dissatisfaction grew workers formed a union called the Sons of St. Crispin and in 1860 things came to ahead with more than 500 shoemakers voting to strike in Natick Massachusetts. Support from other shoe workers in 25 towns followed and a massive strike of over 20,000 workers ensued. The manufacturers refused to recognise the union and eventually the strike came to an end in April 1860. Subsequently many left the industry and were either could up in the Civil War or headed west. After the strike the cost of shoes increased. During the Civil War many if the Confederate soldiers eventually ended up bare foot because most of the shoe factories were in the North. The Battle of Gettysberg was fought over a shoe factory.

On a Pedestal: From Renaissance Chopines to Baroque Heels

"On a Pedestal: From Renaissance Chopines to Baroque Heels" is currently open at the Bata Shoe Museum, Toronto. On display are more than 60 pairs of rare platform and high heel shoes shows from the 16th and 17th centuries. The exhibit, includes footwear on loan from 11 international museums. Chopines were the shoes of upper-class women and courtesans and rose to unprecedented heights in Italy and Spain during the 16th and 17th centuries. They were used to display family wealth, especially in Venice and Florence where the textile industry was important. The taller the platform shoe, the more dress fabric needed and the wealthier the family. The exhibition runs until September 20.

2010 Hot Shoes: Clogs!

Spring collections are featuring clogs as the new find of the season. Under gone a fashion renaissance the simple wooden shoe has taken the imagination of designers who are now filling the runways with Spring previews of sexy leather clogs in all colours, heels, platforms and styles. Clogs are the must-have accessory and Cape Clogs, are a company based in Massachusetts. They produce a wide array of wooden shoes with printed patterns, florals, patent leather, wool, and open toe looks. Cape Clogs are hand–cobbled from Alder (birch) wood like the traditional Swedish clogs and feature genuine Italian leather. Cape Clogs designs for men, women and children.

Man United: No colours!

Sir Alex Ferguson is a no ‘frills man’ especially when it comes to coloured bootball boots. The Manchester United Manager has banned his young players from wearing them. Under new rules Manchester United's junior players have been banned from wearing anything other than old-school black while on club business. Once players make the grade to the reserve or first-team squad then there are no restrictions. At one time no self respecting football professional would be seen wearing anything other than regular black boots on the field but now anything goes. Black boots were once considered ‘flash’ to the very old school who wore brown only. Now it has become the sign of all budding ‘George Bests” to sport colourful boots but Ferguson and Co warn it only attracts unwanted attention both on the field and in the boot room where the real decisions are taken. Ferguson is not alone with his ban and earlier this month Queens Park Rangers youth-team coach Marc Bircham also banned his players from wearing them as a precaution against "getting too flash".The fad for colourful boots came in the 90s with manufacturers keen to identify their product with named players. The coloured boot found its ultimate expression last season with the appearance of Arsenal striker Nicklas Bendtner's provocative bright pink boots, otherwise known as the Nike Mercurial Vapor Berry.

Sometimes it is just easier to give shoes

High level criticism has been leveled at the well meaning charities collecting used and new shoes on behalf of the victims of the Haiti earthquake. On the side of the giver it is a ‘feel good’ contribution which seems perfectly appropriate when in the safe environs of home. However landing cargo containers full of sneakers in the middle of post earthquake chaos does present unforseen problems. Many argue shoes are not in short supply and the arrival of more from overseas only undermines local markets. Sadly as witnessed in other natural catastrophes, mountains of redundant imported goods intended for the poor and sick never see the light of day. Time and time again it has been shown single-item charities which operate as a ‘stop and drop,’ i.e. existing only to collect, deliver and move on, never have the critical feedback mechanism necessary to target their goods to need. Hence much of the aid from many of the ‘in-kind (non-cash) charities’ end up discarded or used for some unintended, less important purpose. The preferred means of aid is cash-transfer programs where the money can help experienced charity and aid workers on the ground, working in conjunction with the local government, to address actual need. Most charities and governments prefer the flexibility of cash donations, allowing them to divide each dollar according to the requirements on the ground. From past experience some charities prefer donations be allowed to be sent elsewhere in the world as oversubscription to one disaster fund can cause bottlenecks. People do need to be wary when making cash donations and that their money will be put to good use. To that effect it is necessary to do a little research before choosing a charity. Sometimes it is just easier to give shoes.

Shoe Thief ready to start a business

A South Korean man stole 1200 pairs of expensive shoes from funeral homes while posing as a mourner in Seoul. The thief took off his own shoes before entering mourning rooms and donned more expensive footwear when he left. His intention was to sell them through his own second-hand shoe business. After he was caught stealing three pairs of shoes, worth $1950 (US) from a funeral home police raided his warehouse and found 1200 in preparation for resale. The stolen shoes were left on display at the police headquarters for a week and many were reclaimed by their owners.

Fashions in the cold: What are the Olympians wearing?

The continued cold weather has seen the fashionista look long and hard at the clothes worn at the 2010 Winter Games . Top designers consult on the Olympic Team costumes and individual competitors clothing. Often high tech sport fabrics and styles cross over into mainstream fashion. Many luminaries including Giorgio Armani, Roberto Cavalli, Moschino, Yohji Yamamoto and Ralph Lauren have designed for participating countries. In Vancouver 2010, Dean and Dan Caten, of Dsquared2, are the outfitters in residence. A few games ago the Canadian team poorboy cap was quickly seen adorning the crowns of celebs like Puff Daddy (Diddy), Prince William and Robin Williams. Berets too proved popular after they were seen in 2002 at Salt Lake City Games. This year because of the continued cold spell it is mittens which seem to have taken the public interest with an estimated three million pairs to be sold before the Closing Ceremonies. Official Team Canada toques, scarves and sweaters have also flown off shelves. Figure skating too presents a fabulous platform for creative expression in dress and Vera Wang (herself a skater) and Christian Lacroix have designed costumes for top class Olympic figure skaters. Not everything however that is worn by the competitors meets with critics’ approval in 2008 the New Zealand team were lampooned mercilessly for wearing Crocs.

Former boxer helps the kids of Ghana

For the poor children of Ghana sport is one of the only outlets and former welterweight boxing champion, Ricky Porter now works tirelessly with the charity, Sonibron Educational Trust appealing to local clubs and Swindon, people to donate their second-hand football boots, to be sent to Ghana. Since 2005 Porter has collected football and netball strips, books and educational material, as well as vital supplies which are sends to the Elmina district. Swindon’s Green Standards Trust have donated ‘school-in-a-box’,a ready-made educational pack which includes basic school supplies. Ricky’s next project is get boxing equipment out to the children at Cape Coast in Ghana.

Slick sneakers from Base London

Men’s footwear brand Base London, have just launched Fish 'N' Chips by Base London for Spring Summer 2010. The stylish range of sneakers graphically printed canvas shoes and boots was inspired by UKs favourite fast food. The Fish 'N' Chips by Base London Summer 2010 collection includes a selection of lace ups, slip-ons, and lightweight boots, all on an original rubber sole decorated with geometric, floral and 80s influenced prints. The shoes have a distinct gingham tablecloth printed inner sock. The only thing missing is the newspaper.

The Fish 'N' Chips collection is available to buy from the Base London online shoe shop.

Being a vegan is no safeguard: Buyer beware.

North America is the world's largest importer of footwear with an estimated 90% of footwear sold in the US comes from overseas. Despite major technological innovations, shoe manufacture remains labour intensive with many manual steps involved in the assembly process. The cost of labour has forced most US shoe companies to relocate their manufacturing plants to other countries. China currently produces 70% of all imported footwear and in 2008 more than 1.2 billion pairs of shoes were imported to the U.S. Australia is no different in this respect with many household names such as Blundstone Boots following the same pattern. For as long as labour remains the most important cost factor then work will always go where unit costs are cheapest.
The intense competition faced by the domestic footwear industries here and in the US reflects the ongoing global shift in comparative advantage. Whilst cheaper shoes are what consumers’ need (or will pay for) it also means traditional home industries suffer as a consequence because they find it well neigh impossible to compete. Over the last four decades there has been significant shrinkage in the home clothing and footwear sectors. According to the Footwear Industries of America (FIA), since the 60s, over 70% of shoe factories in the US have closed.
The downside to outsourcing is manufacturers no longer dictate the working conditions in overseas factories, and some unfortunately badly exploit their workers. Sports footwear giants in particular been accused of poor working practice with claims of child labour. To their credit brand leaders have worked to overcome this but do still fall fowl of their critics from time to time.
Analysis of buying trends during the recession confirms sales of certain shoe types have dropped particularly training shoes. One example, where this trend is reversed is the sector called ‘eco friendly footwear.’ The term describes buying locally made products to sustain small businesses opposed to corporate giants; and at the same time reducing the greenhouse gases from shipping products across the world. However it seems after a recent investigation ‘eco friendly shoes’ may it be all they appear.
According to the Vegetarian Site, US companies are farming out vegan shoes to China for production. Retailers defend their action fiscally and declare they cannot make a profit without sourcing the cheapest labour. Makes perfect sense until it is pointed out many eco friendly shoes are also made in factories where poor working practice is likely. When questioned many vegan shoe retailers were oblivious to this and most were unaware of how their shoes were made.
Vegan ethos is clear and consumers will not buy products which knowingly involve animal and or human exploited in their manufacture. This extends to even when the products are free of animal ingredients. Monitoring Asian organisations like The Fair Labour Association (FLA) do exist but have no remit to inspect small independent manufacturers. The factories which manufacture off-brand vegan shoes are not privy to external evaluation but 'self-monitored' instead to conform to local labour laws and regulations. Other independent monitoring bodies such a Verité are seldom used because factory owners fear the inevitable cost hike threat would follow the implementation of humane working conditions.

Excerpt from the Afternoons with Jenny Seeton Cutin FM 101, Perth Western Australia, Friday 02/19/2010.

Beth Levine: First Lady of Shoes

The exhibition "Beth Levine: First Lady of Shoes," at the Bellevue Arts Museum (BAM) was originally organized by the Dutch Leather and Shoe Museum. Levine (1914-2006), was the daughter of a Jewish farming family from Long Island and began designing shoes under the name of her husband, Herbert Levine. In what was then a male-dominated industry Levine revolutionized the world of shoes for women and popularized mules, stilettos and fashion boots among the stylish set of the late 20th century. Beth Levine designed the white go-go boots made famous by Nancy Sinatra in her 1966 hit "These Boots Are Made for Walkin'." The exhibition is open from February 18 - June 6, 2010

Delman shoes Exhibition NY

The New York company have been established for nearly a century and count many celebrities including Joan Crawford, Marilyn Monroe and Anne Hathaway as clients. Delman’s “It” shoes were synonymous with footwear innovation in the 1940s and 1950s. In March, the Museum of the Fashion Institute of Technology is holding an exhibition of Delman Shoes. An undercurrent of the exhibition is the cycle of fashion and high some style keep on reinventing. Delman Shoes were founded by Herman Delman in 1918 and catered to the finest Delman introduced raunchy sandals which laced to the calf in the 1940s and based the design on a pair of tango shoes he had made more than 20 years before for Irene Castle. Delman was an innovator and realised the benefits of reinterpreting some of his custom designs as ready-to-wear shoes. The most famous example olf which was the copies of the custom Delman shoes that Queen Elizabeth II wore to her 1953 coronation. Delman Shoes also used luminary designers like Kenneth Jay Lane and Roger Vivier to heighten their wares. Delman Shoes are now owned by Nina Footwear . The exhibiton runs throughtout March.

The History of the Shoe: Now you know

Kangaroos shoes.

One of the best know and loved stach pock styled shoes must be Kangaroos shoes which began in 1979 after shie designer and architect, Bob Gamm had the brainwave of designing shoes with a pocket to keep house keys and credit cards safe while jogging. Gradually Kangaroos shoes caught on and by the mid eighties no self respecting jogger would be without a pair. As the years passed and subsequent design innovation took place the running shoes improved. Gamm in partnership with NASA developed Dynacoil TM, sportshoe, which contains a patented energy system that involves an improvement in the suspension and cushion located in the sole of the shoe. Soon athletes wore their Kangaroos with pride. By the nineties, Kangaroos crossed over into mainstream fashion and are sold in over sixty countries around the world. Most still have pockets and others have a larger side pouch going up the ankle that can hold a small wallet.

Sugar Bears: Signature Shoes Auction

Fans of the UCA Woman’s Basketball Team, (aka Sugar Bears) have a chance to own a pair of autographed pink Nike shoes worn by Coach Matt Daniel during the Sugar Bears victory against Northwestern State. The shoes have also been signed by the 2009-10 Sugar Bears team. The auction is part of The WBCA Pink Zone® initiative which is a global, unified effort for the Women's Basketball Coaches Association's (WBCA) nation of coaches to assist in raising breast cancer awareness on the court, across campuses, in communities and beyond.

Bidding will remain open until 4 p.m. on Wednesday, Feb. 24.

Flirty heels: Selling Shoe Space in India

Latest fashion in India is “flirty heels,” that is back look heels with messages proudly displayed on them. The customised shoes have ‘Bite me” on the right shoe and a picture of an apple on the other. Graphic designer, Shital Deliwala from Attic in Mumbai has one shoe with ‘333’ and the other, ‘I am only half as evil’. The new fad follows the footsteps of captioned T shirts which flaunted personality and politics. Long been hip to customise white trainers with images and designs now shoe space has become big business. Successful shoe artists in Mumbai include Savia Jane Pinto from Shoefu and Mind2Sole’s Farzana Billimoria.

The foot cold: Whatever next?

You may have heard of a head cold well now scientists have found the foot cold. A recent case study published in Pediatric Rheumatology Online Journal describes a 12-year-old girl who developed influenza B virus infection. Her condition was diagnosed by typical symptoms and detection of the virus in a nasopharyngeal swab by culture and Polymerase chain reaction (PCR). Two weeks after she developed the flue an otherwise unexplained transient oligoarthritis of small joints of the left foot presented. Scientists concluded the influenza virus may be a hitherto underappreciated cause of a post-infectious arthritis.

Reference
Bruck N, Gahr M, Pessler F. 2010 Transient oligoarthritis of the lower extremity following influenza B virus infection: Case report. Pediatric Rheumatology Online Journal. 2010 Jan 14;8:4.

Deyn on her knees

At Naomi Campbell's fashion fundraiser for Haiti, Agyness Deyn reportedly fell over twice. The 26-year-old model wearing 7" heels was on the runway at the Mercedes-Benz NY Fashion Week at Bryant Park’s The Tent on Friday when she took the double spill. Deyn lost her balance on her Burberry heels, got up, then fell over again before removing her shoes.

Shoeless on the Red Dress Fashion Show

The function of The Heart Truth campaign is to raise awareness about heart disease and women. The campaign is sponsored by the National Heart, Lung, and Blood Institute (NHBLI), an organization of the United States Department of Health and Human Services . Heart disease is the #1 killer of women in the US and the organisation disseminates information as well as encouraging women to improve their health by stopping smoking, keeping a healthy weight, and exercising regularly. Part of the Heart Truth’s campaign of awareness is The Red Dress Fashion Show is an annual event held at the Mercedes-Benz New York Fashion Week . The campaign has also conjured a National Wear Red Day which takes place on the first Friday of February. At this year’s The Red Dress Collection runway show a group of celebs strutted their stuff on the catwalk. These included Kristin Chenoweth,Jordin Sparks,Raven-Symone, Bethenny Frankel, Estelle,Felicity Huffman, Kim Kardashian ,Robin Roberts ,Joan Collins, and Dara Torres.

Dara, the acquatic beauty, strolled the catwalk with stylish difference carrying her silver, bling, stilettos by Brian Atwood in her hands. An action we may see a lot more of on the catwalk in the coming months.

The program was completed with a stroll from Heidi Klum (program’s spokeswomen) in a slinky John Galliano halter dress.

Footsie on St Valentine’s Day

Feet are funny things. Stuck away dependables usually forgotten about unless they give us pain or its time for some naughty foot frolics such as a date on St Valentines Day. According to the University of Manchester study we use our feet as means of non-verbal communication and the secret language of feet can reveal a great deal personality. Apparently the way we move our feet reveals much about our feelings and researchers discovered women move their feet towards a man if they find him attractive. An unnatural amount of foot movement signals dishonesty in both sexes and men tend to move their feet more when nervous. Unlike facial expressions or hand gestures people are usually unaware when their feet are moving and apparently most of us are oblivious to the messages our feet send out.

I expect everyone is familiar with the act of flirting or sharing a surreptitious intimacy called footsie or footsie - footsie. Just in case you are not in the know, footsie describes clandestine touching of the feet or leg under the table. Apparently there are several moves involved starting with the toe nudge followed by delicate investigation up under the trouser hem. The less direct method is to rest your foot against your partner but alternate between removing the pressure and pushing again. This needs to be done in a spontaneous manner so the recipient is unsure if the contact is intentional or otherwise. Leg crossing and toying with the shoe are other forms of footsie but a high degree of dexterity is required in this matter, if you are going to be successful. So practice is essential. (I think I may start a class?).

The origin of the gentle art of foot seduction is unknown but does appear in the literature and movies from the 1940s onwards when romantics sought to include reference to intimacy without running fowl of the censors. There is might remain but for the ancients’ preoccupation with feet as ‘object sensual’ is well documented in both Oriental and Occidental Society. In antiquity feet held great fascination with many Roman generals taking their lover’s sandal as keepsakes into battle. Why feet and shoes should be thought sexy in this way is complex but likely to involve a phenomenon known as the Displacement Theory. Simply put this describes what took place after we started to cover up our wobbly bits. Unable to see genitalia because it was covered meant greater significance was placed on clothing as an indication of gender. As part of this process hair and hats; feet and shoes became sexualized. In ancient society the sight of clothes provided the safest distance to judge friend or foe. Clothing served three main functions: decoration, modesty and protection. Whilst the latter may appear the most logical (to 21st Century beings) it is not supported by history (both ancient and modern). So in antiquity clothing provided decoration and modesty. Fig leaf mentality from the 3rd century onward may explain why we covered up, but by far the major reason for clothing, was decoration. The essential purpose of decoration is to beautify bodily appearance in order to attract admiring glances. This became a preoccupation of the ruling class and was fiercely imitated by the rising middle class. Only when decoration and modesty are pitted together however do we witness a modern psychological conflict or clothing neurosis. The degree of harmony or compromise between these conflicting interests is clearly seen in shoes. This is where many believe shoes and or feet have much to say about personality. In psycho-social terms there are three types of female shoes.

Revealing shoes. Display feet as objects of frailty. &
Concealing shoes which transmit a suggestive erotic message of tight containment.
Both strongly proclaim femininity, individuality and sexual allure.
Masking shoes play down personality by discouraging notice.

So where does footsie come into it?
We need to go back in European history to the middle ages when a nameless cobbler crafted a pair of poulaines (long toed shoes) for courtier Rulk Fulkner. Rulk was a dandy and fop and dedicated setter of fashion. Like Posh Spice he suffered painful bunions and had very broad feet. His cobbler crafted the new look long toed shoe broad enough at the bunion area but ending the shoe well beyond the end of the toes and meeting at a point. The fashion caught on and lasted unabated for three hundred years. Extensions became longer and longer (24” longer than the foot) until they were so long as to make walking almost impossible. Young bucks started to stuff wool and moss in the extensions to keep them erect. Indeed the blatant phallic symbol became so long, often they had to be attached to the knee with a chain to prevent tripping. A popular vulgarity was to paint the extensions flesh coloured, allowing them to flap with lifelike mobility. Small bells (hawk bells) were often attached to the end of the poulaine to indicate the wearer was a willing partner in sexual frolic. Footsie-footsie took on a more meaningful importance during this time and many a dinner party would be enhanced with below table shenanigans. This allowed a man to keep three women perfectly happy under the table whilst leaving his hands free to enjoy a healthy repast. Shocked at the overt obscenity of long toed shoes the Church tired to condemn them and when this met with dumb silence sumptuary laws were passed to prevent commoners from wearing peaked toed shoes.

The word shoe (scoe) is Anglo-Saxon, meaning 'to cover furtively,’ and shoes have a long history of being used as sex toys for safe sex. Footsie is just the beginning.... Happy Valentine’s Day.

Excerpt from the Afternoons with Jenny Seeton Cutin FM 101, Perth Western Australia Friday 02/12/2010.

Alexander McQueen

The sad news Alexander McQueen had died marred the beginning of this year’s New York Fashion Week. McQueen started his career in Savile Row aged just 16, and 24 years later had become the premier fashion designer of his time. Hid latest collection was inspired by Atlantis but due to his demise has been cancelled.

Dirty Thongs

It seems the foot police have played an ace card (sic. or so they think) in their fight against flip flops with a new health warning about wearing thongs. The G string for the foot kind of thong or Havaianas can be a health hazard according to experts. Not just the same old same old about non supportive shoes this time but something more cunning. A recent article in the New York Daily News revealed alarming new health hazards about thongs. Shoes worn for two days in the Big Apple were put to the test and they were found to contain large colonies of the bacteria Staphylococcus aureus. This is a common pathogen found on the skin and the cause of local infections such as boils but is not considered dangerous in people with a healthy immune system . The bacteria thrives in warm, moist environments but is usually contained with normal skin hygiene. People who go bare foot or wear thongs are more likely to over expose their skin to the UV rays which is by far potentially more dangerous. So good hygiene and ‘slip slop slap’ makes good sense for thong wearers.

Hollywood foot fetish: Nothing new

D.W. Griffith (Birth of a Nation) is regarded by many as the founding father of American cinema but according to revelations in"Secret Lives of Great Filmmakers: What Your Teachers Never Told You About The World's Greatest Directors" (Quirk Books) he was a racist. Not only that he was a crurofile and had a leg fetish. D W Griffiths sponsored a beauty contest for feet and ankles with the first prize a 6 month film contract. The runner up was a pretty girl trying to break into the industry. Joan Crawford was her name, and her prize was a pair of made to measure shoes. Epic director Cecil B. DeMille ("The Ten Commandments") had a foot fetish and was the primary instigator in stars leaving footprints outside Sid Grauman's Chinese theater. Never one for buying one pair when she could have seventy pairs at a time, Greta Garbo like Emelda Marcus had obsessive compulsive disorder and collected shoes. Gloria Swanson was an altocalciphile (she had a heel fetish) and once had a pair of shoes made with corkscrew heels studded with imitation pearls to fit her beautiful feet.

China fights anti-dumping sanctions

China recently filed a complaint with the World Trade Organization (WTO) over the European Union's extension of anti-dumping duties on Chinese-made leather shoes. This action has triggered the WTO dispute settlement procedure. The EU started levying anti-dumping duties against leather shoes imported from China in 2006. These were extended by another 15 months in 2009 by the EU's executive body. Over the past 10 years, Europe's shoe-making industry has been in decline whilst their counterparts in Asia and the Middle East have been burgeoning. The quota restrictions were imposed by the EU to protect the industrial sector. The result has been European consumers now pay more for footwear and because of falls in imports from China 20,000 Chinese shoe workers are now without jobs.

Fashion in India and Bollywood endorsement

Aki Narula is as famous as a fashion designer as a Bollywood costume director (Dostana and Bachna Ae Haseeno) and has created in conjunction with Puma a new appatel and footwear range called Black Label. Aki Narula intends to showcase his designs in two forthcoming Bollywood movies. Product endorsement is also very evident in the forthcoming Bollywood bloskbuster “My Name Is Khan” (MNIK) starring Shah Rukh Khan. The actor is seen wearing Reebok's new
footwear and apparel collection. The Reebok’s MNIK collection is targeted at the growing, sports and fashion conscious Indian market. Crocs Inc. launched their new collection for men, women and children recently at the India Fashion Forum 2010.The theme is Feel Good Revolution’ and the new Crocs™ range includes shoes designed by Sirali founders Rahul Jain and Gunjan Arora.

Boots of calibre for auction

A pair of football boots worn by Sir Stanley Matthews in the 1953 FA Cup final are to be sold at auction. Stanley Matthews nicknamed "The Wizard of Dribble", helped Blackpool to a 4-3 victory over Bolton Wanderers. Matthews’ boots were recently found and are up for auction at Bonham’s in Chester. The provenance is after the final the goal hero give his muddy footwear to a fan called Wilf Coomer who kept them as his prize possession. Stanley Matthews was a tour de force in the design of football boots and in 1951 helped the Co-op produce a new pair of boots.
The player wore them for the 1952 / 53 season.
The Stanley Matthews' Foundation helps youngsters succeed in sport.

The Sock Mob

The Sock Mob is a volunteer network in London seeking to give friendship and socks to rough sleepers, beggars and others who seem socially excluded in central London. The Sock Mob came about because of concerns relating to the number of people sleeping rough. Appears official local council statistics have significantly underestimated the total population of central London’s roofless sleeping rough.

Look'in cool, flat feet and back packs

Preparing kids for school has become stressful and all the more so because of the expense involved. Not only do children need to have the requisite kit and meet the appropriate dress code for school they also need the have the cool lunch box, pencil case, and other accessories that pack into their back-backs. Schools have the authority to demand dress code but its peer pressure which determines the rest. Children are all too aware of the consequence of owning and uncool lunch box. They may end up the brunt of scorn or worse still, cruel bullying. Manufacturers are well aware of ‘the cool factor’ and market branded goods at higher prices than generic counterparts. What parent has not had the experience of remonstrating with junior over the cost of a brand named pencil case or lunch box? The added expense of accessories can and does impose sanction on already tight domestic budgets which may lead to further stress at home. Wrestling with mortgage repayments, increased interest rates and a general increase in the cost of living is no joy, as I am sure many readers will agree.

The latent cost of a child’s education must include the expense necessary to cloth and kit the children for school. On average a young child will change size every three months (which corresponds to the three terms per year) Not only clothing but shoes need to be bought and these can be expensive. Supposing you can convince junior not to wear the most expensive trainers buying three pairs of shoes per year, per child is enough to make you take out a second mortgage. Wearing hand me down shoes especially when they are gently used with heels intact and no holes in the soles is perfectly adequate. Provided they fit the foot and are designed to cope with the stress of wear then there is no reason for concern. Trainers can be washed in the washing machine and if necessary you can even fumigate them between users. Most pharmacists should be able to advise you on an appropriate product and the process is both simple and safe provided you follow the manufacture’s instruction.
Much concern has been expressed of late regarding obesity in children and experts believe a contributory factor relates in part to modern diets of high density processed foods which stimulate growth hormones during puberty. Another study reported obesity in children was a leading factor in bigger feet because increased body mass can lead to the foot “pan caking” under excess weight. Flattening of the arches is no that common occurrence despite rumours to the contrary but arch pain caused by foot fatigue is, with the major contributory factor, overuse. This might include carrying extra weight including overweight backpacks. Backpacks are by themself not exceptionally dangerous but medical experts have expressed concern at misuse (usually due to over loading) with up to 33% of young children complaining of backache caused by wearing, lifting or taking off a heavy backpack. In 2002 California government passed a law to regulate the weight of textbooks to reduce overall bulk kids had to carry.

As a rule of thumb a safe backpack load equates to approx. one tenth of body weight up to a load of 11.5 kilos (25 lbs). No one should carry above this weight. An average 27.5 kilo (60 lbs.) child can carry a maximum backpack weight of 2.5 kilos (or 5 lbs). Back packs should only contain what the child needs with the heavier items placed at the bottom. This transfers the weight to the hips and off the shoulders. A waist strap also helps secure the load. The back pack should be no bigger than the child’s back with flat items packed resting against the spine and bulky or pointed items placed away from the back. Both shoulder straps (the wider the better) should be worn to help evenly distribute load. A balanced backpack should hang slightly below the shoulders (2”) with no more that 4 inches hanging below the waist line.

Excerpt from the Afternoons with Jenny Seeton Cutin FM 101, Perth Western Australia Friday 02/05/2010.

Penfield Shoe Box Float Contest

Penfield Recreation Department are inviting families, groups and individuals to decorate a shoe box and enter it as a float in the second annual “Shoe Box Float Contest.” The shoe box can be decorated in any theme and all entries will be part of the mini parade to be held as part of the Penfield Seniors’ annual Mardi Gras Party and Pancake Lunch on Tuesday, Feb. 16. Judges will choose the winning floats in various categories and prizes will be awarded. The most famous shoe box building is in Toronto and houses the Bata Shoe Museum.

Walking on the moon

Moon walking required the highest of high-tech shoes and cost a pretty penny to produce but according to National Geographic , Neil Armstrong's boots (size 9 1⁄2 medium) are still on the moon, along with nine other pairs of boots worn during the Apollo missions. When the Apollo astronauts collected moon rocks, they jettison their boots to compensate for the additional weight they brought back. Three decades on moon’s surface the metal buckles and boot snaps would remain corrosion free because of the lack of oxygen on the moon. The silicone soles and synthetic fabrics would however have degraded and off-gassed. Any attempt to retrieve them now might result in what remains turning to powder. The latest in space footwear is the M2 Trekkera and cost a cool $30,000 US a pair to develop. They are constructed in three parts i.e. an inner pressure bladder, a middle structural layer, and a protective cover. The shoe needs to tolerate temperatures from minus 350˚F (minus 212˚C) to plus 350˚F (177˚C), resist micrometeoroids (dust travelling at 45,000 miles an hour), protect the astronauts’ feet from the rocky surface of the moon, and be comfortable enough to allow the wearer to hike across the rough lunar landscape. The new moon boots have been design at ILC Dover (a manufacturer of space suits for NASA in Frederica, Delaware).The new boots are slimmer and lighter (in weight) than the last generation shoe worn by Apollo astronauts.

Bigger feet – galosh!

Traditionally the wellington boot is slightly different from Galoshes (from French: galoches), also known as gumshoes, dickersons, or overshoes. These are a type of rubber outer shoe that is slipped over shoes to keep them from getting muddy or wet. The origin of the gaulish or gallicae came from France (Gaul) in antiquity. The conquering Romans found the local people wearing a form of sabot i.e. a leather upper and a sole carved of wood, and used it as boot style to protect themselves from the inclement weather. Today galoshes and wellington boots are more or less synonymous and are now almost universally made of rubber (sometimes known as ‘rubbers’).Charles Goodyear and Leverett Candee revolutionised the gum boot industry with rubber vulcanization in 1890.
With the prospect of a winter thaw ahead, sales in wellington boots has once again soared in the UK. Hunter Wellington boots are the snow friendly galosh of choice. The practical footwear for the season have mass appeal with the classic racing green, fail-safe black and the or more bold bright pink all selling well.

Something that may come as a surprise to many buying wellies is according to a recent survey released by Debenhams womens’ shoe sizes are getting bigger. In the past five years, average ladies shoe sizes have increased from UK size 5 (US size 7) to a UK size 6 (US size 8), with larger sizes 9 and 10 also in higher demand. Appears human morphology is on the increase and as a species we are getting bigger and taller. 3 decades back the standard women's shoes size was a 4 (US 6), and sixty years ago, the average size in the UK was a 3 1/2. Experts believe a contributory factor to this apparent size spurt relates to modern diets of high density processed foods which stimulate growth hormones during puberty. Another study reported obesity in children was a leading factor in bigger feet because increased body mass could lead to the foot “pancaking” under excess weight.

Despite the increase in foot size it appears according to another survey revealed that 4 out of 10 women bought shoes knowing they do not fit; and nearly two out of 10men did the same.